Рыбацкий городок Буссе, или Как не проспать чудо

понедельник, 14 декабря 2015, 17:12

Автор текста, фото и видео: Светлана Коцубинская

Вставая в пять утра в выходной, думалось: как же меня уговорили поехать на зимнюю рыбалку? Я и вставать рано не люблю, и рыбачить не хочу, и мерзну все время… Ну ладно, разок отмечусь, чтобы рассказывать потом материковым друзьям, сделаю несколько фото себя на фоне пойманной другими рыбки да почитаю в тишине…

В начале шестого утра в воскресенье Южно-Сахалинск уже не спал: предрассветный город оккупировали сосредоточенные мужчины в ватных штанах. Они загружали что-то в багажники своих машин, закупались чем-то в магазинах, поджидали кого-то на городских улицах… В заиндевевших окнах автомобилей виднелись женские и даже детские головы. Из некоторых выглядывали радостные собачьи морды. Поехали!

В Корсакове движение на улицах оказалось еще более активным, а мимо Озерского ехали уже небольшими сплоченными группками по пять-семь машин, собравшихся со всего юга Сахалина. Все двигались на озеро Малое Буссе за корюшкой-малороткой. По вздымающейся горками дороге вдоль моря ползли уже дружным муравьиным строем на восток, навстречу восходящему солнцу. Туман над протокой, золотой искрящейся лед – а ведь я была на миллиметр от того, чтобы проспать такое чудо!

На Буссе к семи утра было уже около пяти тысяч человек. На «автостоянке» - огромной поляне у озера – машин больше, чем у «Сити Молла» в предновогодние выходные. На самом озере - целый рыбацкий городок. Разноцветные дома-палатки, ведра-скамеечки, улицы- тропинки для пешеходов... Все разматывают снасти, бурят лунки – по две на каждого рыбака.

- Сейчас появились электробуры, кстати, здесь, на льду уже видел несколько. А мы по старинке. Сегодня лед небольшой, около 25 см, пробурить несложно. А бывает гораздо толще, приходится вставать на стул и крутить по 20 минут, чтобы пробиться к воде. В таких случаях можно и заказать лунку за 100 рублей, владельцы электробуров зачастую так подрабатывают, - рассказывает рыбак со стажем Алексей.

В этот день он решил отпраздновать на Малом Буссе день рождения, друзья с удовольствием поддержали. На стульчиках - перевернутых ведрах, рюкзаках - все сидят возле своих лунок, ждут. Через отверстие во льду заметно, как озеро дышит: из глубин периодически поднимаются пузырьки. В лунку кидают прикормку - криль, его можно купить за 150-200 рублей. Вода, тягучая от мороза, едва колышется. Клюет!

- Папа, я первую поймал!!! Как ее теперь снять?! - орет четвероклассник Никита. Папа спешит на помощь, учит сына снимать рыбу с крючка. Корюшка летит на лед, несколько минут трепыхается, замирает.

У каждого вокруг – уже небольшие кучки. Бабушка Валя из Холмска рыбачит уже около пяти лет - сыновья научили. Говорит, что лучшего отдыха и не надо.

- У меня друзья пару лет назад с Сахалина уехали в Белгород. Довольны: продукты дешевле, до центра близко. Но как зима наступает, тоскуют по рыбалке, сил нет. Звонят, расспрашивают. Просят фотографии выслать. Да, этого ничем не заменишь, - замечает Валентина, снимая очередную серебристую рыбешку. У нее пятеро детей, четверо внуков. Раздавать улов не придется - все съедят.

Вокруг все как могут налаживают быт. Стихийно образовалась зона, где играют малыши. Одна мамочка поставила в рыбацкие санки-поддон складной стульчик, на него усадила ребенка, обмотала талию веревками - и бегом по льду. Дети хохочут, раскрасневшаяся мама счастлива.

Еще одно семейство решило познакомить с зимней рыбалкой двухлетнюю дочь Кристину. Вторая дочка, пятилетняя Василиса, уже достаточно умело поддергивает удочку в лунке, подманивая добычу. История семьи весьма любопытна: любовь к рыбалке мужу и детям прививает мама Наташа.

- Вот дали бы мне возможность провести день в самом модном салоне красоты или в аквапарке в Таиланде – все равно не променяла бы на нашу корюшку! – делится она.

Походив пару часов по льду, даже неопытный взгляд начинает замечать разницу в снастях. У кого крючки красные, у кого зеленые, у кого желтые... У одних на них опарыши, у других - «махалки» с блесенками. Профессионалы делятся, что и в вязке лески есть отличия, и в прикормке нюансы. Несмотря на разницу в подходах клевало понемногу у всех. Улов рос, настроение поднималось. Кто-то стал доставать газовые плитки и сковороды.

- Такой красоты нигде нет, только у нас, на Дальнем Востоке!!! Посмотрите, какая корюшка получилась, - хвастается Светлана, перекладывая жареную рыбку на блюдо. Нахваливая «нашу» рыбалку, она, казалось, забыла, что не коренная сахалинка, а прибыла на остров из Сызрани вслед за мужем – военным. Остров для них стал своим.

Запах свежежареной рыбки разлетается на остальные «улицы». Приходят соседи.

- У вас перца случаем нет? - спрашивает молодой мужчина. - Свой дома забыли, а уха без перца не та…

Перца, к сожалению, не было, взамен предложили соль, кетчуп, лимончик и даже немного коньячку. Вспомнив историю, как казаки за спичками ходили, проситель с улыбкой отказывается, приглашая на уху.

К обеду, собрав улов, многие потянулись назад. На лед тем временем прибывают новые рыбаки. Наше место приглядел Павел Семенович, пенсионер из Южно-Сахалинска. Задаю вопрос о любви к рыбалке. Он, распаковывая снасти, неторопливо рассуждает:

- Я думаю так. Как бы мы не противились, в человеке все равно много от животного. И нам, людям, нужно время от времени возвращаться к природе. Она для нас естественная среда, как бы мы не прятались за бетоном, металлом, пластиком, проводами. Надо босыми ногами по живой земле походить. Пальцами кору дерева почувствовать. Добывать пищу, как делали это предки тысячи лет назад. Мы как бы возвращаем себе какие-то природные, как говорят, базовые настройки. Нам на Сахалине это проще сделать. А в мегаполисах такой возможности нет. Вот и сбиваются у людей эти настройки. От родителей отказываются, детей не рожают, ориентацию меняют, дурь курят… Ходите на рыбалку. И мозги на место встанут.

Вот за этим, наверное, я и встала в пять утра… Чтобы ехать навстречу просыпающемуся солнцу. Чтобы увидеть золотой лед. Чтобы понять, как поставить мозги на место в рыбацком городке Буссе. В книге, которую в этот день я так и не достала, о таком не напишут.

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select id from news_sections where code = 'new' 1 0.000119 false
select post.id, post.title, post.publish_date, post.description, post.number_of_views, post.video_flag, post.audio_flag, picture.id as image_id, picture.disk_name as image_path from news_posts as post left join db_files as picture on picture.master_object_class = 'News_Post' and picture.master_object_id = post.id and picture.field = 'picture' where post.published is not null and post.publish_date <= now() and post.publish_date > now() - interval 5 day and post.section_id = 1 and post.as_advertising_flag is null order by post.number_of_views desc, post.is_important_news desc, post.publish_date desc limit 10 10 0.077192 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117406 1 0.000375 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =69214 1 0.000288 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117467 1 0.000296 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117378 1 0.000289 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117384 1 0.000277 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117453 1 0.000318 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117440 1 0.000343 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117461 1 0.000257 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117464 1 0.000224 false
select news_sections.code from news_posts join news_sections on news_posts.section_id = news_sections.id where news_posts.id =117403 1 0.000217 false
SELECT admin_module_settings.* FROM admin_module_settings WHERE (admin_module_settings.module_id='news') AND (admin_module_settings.form_id='default') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000183 false
SELECT admin_module_settings.* FROM admin_module_settings WHERE (admin_module_settings.module_id='admin') AND (admin_module_settings.form_id='default') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000186 false
select id from banners_categories where code = 'bg_site' 1 0.000145 false
SELECT (DATEDIFF(CURRENT_DATE(), date_enabled)) as days_enabled, (category_calculated_join.name) as category_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='image')) as image_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='flash_file')) as flash_file_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='html5_file')) as html5_file_calculated, banners.* FROM banners LEFT JOIN banners_categories as category_calculated_join ON category_calculated_join.id = banners.category_id WHERE (banners.enabled = 1 and category_id = '3') ORDER BY sort_order desc 1 0.000868 false
update banners set impression_number = impression_number+1 where id='4' - 0.000187 false
SELECT db_files.* FROM db_files WHERE (db_files.master_object_id = '4') AND (db_files.master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='image') ORDER BY id 1 0.000095 false
SELECT (DATEDIFF(CURRENT_DATE(), date_enabled)) as days_enabled, (category_calculated_join.name) as category_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='image')) as image_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='flash_file')) as flash_file_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='html5_file')) as html5_file_calculated, banners.* FROM banners LEFT JOIN banners_categories as bc ON bc.id = banners.category_id LEFT JOIN banners_categories as category_calculated_join ON category_calculated_join.id = banners.category_id WHERE (bc.code = 'top_header_banner') GROUP BY banners.position ORDER BY banners.sort_order desc, banners.id 1 0.001034 false
SELECT (DATEDIFF(CURRENT_DATE(), date_enabled)) as days_enabled, (category_calculated_join.name) as category_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='image')) as image_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='flash_file')) as flash_file_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = banners.id and (master_object_class='Banners_Banner' and field='html5_file')) as html5_file_calculated, banners.* FROM banners LEFT JOIN banners_categories as category_calculated_join ON category_calculated_join.id = banners.category_id WHERE (banners.position='2') AND (( exposure_limit_type is NULL or exposure_limit_type = 0 or (exposure_limit_type = 1 and period_start >= CURRENT_DATE() and period_end <= CURRENT_DATE()) or (exposure_limit_type = 2 and hits_left > 0) )) 0 0.000383 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items WHERE (admin_menu_items.group_name = 'Социальные сети') 5 0.000108 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '20') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000097 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '21') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000102 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '22') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000108 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '23') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000098 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '24') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000099 false
SELECT admin_menus.* FROM admin_menus WHERE (admin_menus.code = 'main') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000212 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items WHERE (admin_menu_items.menu_id = '1') AND (admin_menu_items.parent_id is null and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden=0) and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu=0)) ORDER BY group_name, sort_order 6 0.000133 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items ORDER BY sort_order 23 0.000108 false
SELECT admin_menus.* FROM admin_menus WHERE (admin_menus.id = '1') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000091 false
SELECT admin_menus.* FROM admin_menus WHERE (admin_menus.code = 'main') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000106 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items WHERE (admin_menu_items.menu_id = '1') AND (admin_menu_items.parent_id is null and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden=0) and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu=0)) ORDER BY group_name, sort_order 6 0.000115 false
SELECT admin_menus.* FROM admin_menus WHERE (admin_menus.code = 'dropdown_menu') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000092 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items WHERE (admin_menu_items.menu_id = '4') AND (admin_menu_items.parent_id is null and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden=0) and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu=0)) ORDER BY group_name, sort_order 2 0.000098 false
SELECT admin_menus.* FROM admin_menus WHERE (admin_menus.id = '4') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000087 false
SELECT (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = news_special_projects.id and (master_object_class='News_Special_Project' and field='logo')) as logo_calculated, (select group_concat(db_files.name ORDER BY 1 SEPARATOR ', ') from db_files where db_files.master_object_id = news_special_projects.id and (master_object_class='News_Special_Project' and field='poster')) as poster_calculated, news_special_projects.* FROM news_special_projects ORDER BY sort_order desc 15 0.000105 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items WHERE (admin_menu_items.group_name = 'Социальные сети') 5 0.000105 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '20') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000094 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '21') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000094 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '22') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000100 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '23') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000097 false
SELECT (menu_link_calculated_join.title) as menu_link_calculated, admin_text_blocks.* FROM admin_text_blocks LEFT JOIN admin_menu_items as menu_link_calculated_join ON menu_link_calculated_join.text_block_id = admin_text_blocks.id WHERE (admin_text_blocks.id = '24') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000105 false
SELECT admin_menus.* FROM admin_menus WHERE (admin_menus.code = 'main') LIMIT 0, 1 1 0.000091 false
SELECT admin_menu_items.* FROM admin_menu_items WHERE (admin_menu_items.menu_id = '1') AND (admin_menu_items.parent_id is null and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden=0) and (admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu is null or admin_menu_items.is_hidden_in_menu=0)) ORDER BY group_name, sort_order 6 0.000099 false